Whenever there is a new restaurant opening in Leicester, there is always much excitement brewing. When the public found out about the opening of Miller & Carter however, there was much debate. The company, owned by the same people as the Harvester, was to take up space at the Foxhunter Roundabout- in place of the Toby Carvery. Opinions were divided. Toby Carvery had long been a tradition of families gathering on a Sunday, and the under 25s gathering to nurse a hangover. How were the people of South Leicestershire going to cope? I, however, was very excited. I’d already review the Miller & Carter in Rothley and was seriously impressed. Was it to be that I could get an amazing steak dinner, right down the round from me? I was about to find out when the lovely team invited me along to the open evening.
The inside of the restaurant itself was stunning, and such a change from the Toby interior- I hardly recognised the place. We were greeted at the counter and showed to our seats where our fantastic waitress Emma greeted us and talked us through the menus.
I opted for calamari to start with and oh wow. Generally you get the entire ring when you order, but these were smaller portions, and they work really well. They aren’t at all rubbery, and the batter is light and crispy. A great start. For main, I chose beef brisket and my guest chose a steak. He’s a big steak fan, and has it rare- something that is actually relatively hard to do. As well as your main, with steak dishes, you get a ‘wedge’ of lettuce with a topping. This is literally a quarter of a lettuce that you can have with cheese, bacon, Caesar sauce and more. It’s unexpected, and I’m not sure anywhere else does them, but it makes for a nice break in between mouthfuls of steak/beef.
Another thing that Miller and Carter do is an ‘onion loaf’ which is their variation on the traditional onion ring. It’s a little like a potato rosti and it is delicious. It came with both our meals. With my guests steak, he opted for sweet potato fries, and I had mash and tender stem broccoli which was delicious. The rich beef dripping gravy was good too- in actual fact, my meal would have made a good Sunday dinner option! We were so full after our meal that we didn’t have desserts- just a liqueur coffee and hot chocolate.
Considering it was their opening evening, I was impressed with Miller and Carter Enderby. I know a few people on the night were waiting a while for their food, but that is to be expected with teething problems at a new restaurant. I have tried to visit since, although be warned the are bookings only- a mistake I made when we decided to see if we could grab a table then and there!
As part of my review, I also sent over some questions for the Head Chef of Miller and Carter Enderby, Alan Potter, all about his background, and his experience with steak!
What is your background? Where have you worked before?
I’ve always loved cooking, even from a young age, I was always helping out in the kitchen, and this lead to me getting my first job in a kitchen when I was 16. I’ve worked my way up over the past 18 years, at a number of different restaurants in a variety of roles, until I became head chef at Miller & Carter Enderby.
Had you ever worked with steak before Miller & Carter?
I’ve worked with steak in a number of restaurants before, but Miller & Carter is the first where steak takes pride of place on the menu and has a great selection of cuts available.
In your opinion, what makes the perfect steak?
For me, the perfect steak is one that hasn’t been fussed around with too much. Keep it simple and treat it with respect. It should always be seasoned well, and make sure you don’t cut out the resting time at the end!
Why do you think so many restaurants get steak wrong?
I think a lot of restaurants try to do too much with it, and this can take the focus away from the star of the dish, the steak itself! Having the option to add sauces and sides etc is great as every customer likes their steak cooked and served in different ways, but the more complicated you make it, and (feeding into my previous answer) the more you fuss around with it, the more at risk you become of losing the flavour and texture a great steak should have.
What would you recommend from the Miller & Carter menu and why?
My personal favourite from the menu would be the 8oz grain fed Black Angus ribeye. For me it’s the perfect combination of incredible flavour mixed with a lovely tender cut. The marbled fat melts down when cooked, creating a steak that cuts like butter and is bursting with flavour.
Do you think there’s any truth to steak and wine pairing? If so, what would you suggest?
I absolutely do, and red wine will always be my personal choice when sitting down to a steak. For me, you can’t get a more perfect pairing than a Malbec that’s robust enough to handle the flavour of the ribeye.
What can we expect from Miller & Carter Enderby in the future?
It’s been just over a month since we opened, and we’ve already had a great response from our local guests, so I hope to carry this on, and showcase the great selection on our menu to guests new and old!
Miller & Carter Enderby can be found at Leicester Rd, Leicester LE19 2BJ (the old Toby Carvery location!
*Both mine and my guests meals were complimentary but this in no way sways my opinion of the restaurant, or the food!